artworks and waistcoats by Jackie Wills

February 2008 - 12 x video patchwork demonstrations on YouTube - follow this link:

http://www.youtube.com/thejaxcollection

If you scroll down this page you will find basic patchwork instructions for hexagons and diamond shapes. Further down I am in the process of writing about working with re-cycled fabrics.

These three velvet cushions have been around for years - showing clear signs of wear and tear - they were handsewn by my Mother from old sample books - they have been washed many times. I use them as garden cushions in the summer and in winter they stay in the conservatory.

I also want to tell you about the time saving Template Packs - Hexagons, Diamonds, Squares, Fibonacci, Octagons and New 2006 "The Beautiful Design" - various sizes and quantities - if you cannot find what you are looking for please email me. I can make special packs to suit your requirements.

Webcam Help - If you would like a patchwork demonstration or need help in selecting your fabrics, or you would like to discuss patchwork via reprociating webcam please email me.

Please visit my sister website www.patchworktemplates.com where you will find lots more info and a shopping cart should you want to purchase paper templates.

The Christmas Quilt - made of glazed cotton chintz. Imperial size hexagons - one and a quarter inches dia.

I used plain glazed chintz plus "Cambridge Design" patterned chintz.

Basic Instructions for Handsewn Hexagon Patchwork

I will be adding much more information in the coming weeks - my aim is to offer a complete guide for successful handsewn traditional English Patchwork. I tend to rely on my experience rather than "The Rule Book". My approach to all sewing is that it should be enjoyed - it should not be a rigid experience - you do not have to follow a plan - experiment - with the emphasis on creativity and style coming from the maker

Before you start

There are many conciderations before you start your work - for example calculating that you have enough of your chosen fabric before you start - do not rush into selecting colours and pattern combinations - leave your fabrics out in a place where you can eliminate and swirl your choices around - its amazing how different colours & patterns look next to each other in different light and shades of the day. Most fabric should washed and pressed before use. This is specially important in the case of work that will be washed after completion. In the case of wall-hangings this is not important.

The photograph on the left shows what happens if you do not wash your fabric before you start! The pink has bled into the white. Too late for me to do anything about!

A quick way prepare your fabric in preparation for a "sit down" sewing session is to rip strips of fabric - remove selvedge edge - check with your template the size required - allow at least 1cm each side of template - press the strips - then fold fabric into a concertina - lay the template on top of the concertina and cut accordingly - you may wish to keep the corners (as the picture below) or you may wish to trim them - its a personal choice. Cut through the concertinered layers - you may wish to trim slightly the ripped edge - hey presto you have a pile of cut fabric ready to work with.

The above works well for plain, striped and small repeat fabrics - if you wish to centre a feature (i.e a flower) you need to cut individually. An easy way to do this is to hold your fabric and template up to the light.

Cut your fabric about 7mm larger than your template. If you are using templates larger than 6cm cut hexagon shape around the template. This is a personal choice - I often use more fabric as I like the tactile feel of the bulk underneath. Do not cut less than 5mm - you need enough to prevent fraying. Lay your template onto the wrong side of the fabric as shown top left. Thread a needle with tacking thread, fold the fabric accurately over one side of the template (top right) you will feel the paper underneath. Hold with two tacking stitches - then continue to fold the fabric over the paper tacking as you go until you get back to where you started. Secure with a couple of back stitches. It is important that you are as accurate as possible as the hexagons will not fit when you sew covered templates together. The result should look like the covered template (bottom left). This may seem tedious at first but believe me, once you get the "knack" you will speed along - just takes a little patience to start...............once you get going there will be no stopping!

My suggestion is that you sew lots of medallions before sewing them together. It will give you an opportunity to "play" with your hexagons a bit - to work out your pattern - a good idea is to stab your hexagons onto a carpet tile or piece of polystyrene - so much fun can be gained by looking at them and juxtaposing them around before committing to permanent design.

When sewing medallions together use good thread - not cheap tacking thread. Match the colour with your medallions - if lots of colours are involved a good neutral grey or beige thread works well. Take two medallions right sides together and oversew with small neat stitches. The smaller your stitches the better and stronger your work will be.

I have tried to illustrate this in the two templates on the left. The picture did not work out too well!............not good at all this technology! After sewing from one corner to another corner, you may find that you have enough thread to continue further - instead of casting off - take your needle to the wrong side of your work and thread under to the direction that you want to start your next hexagon. When you emerge do a couple of stitches in the corner to hold and then continue on your way. The front of your work should look like the sample shown bottom right in the group of four - above this section of writing.

Little tip - you do not need to keep breaking cotton when tacking your hexagons - keep them joined until you need them - keeps them tidy - OK - I admit to getting slightly frustrated when they tangle together - but on the whole its a good idea. Sample shown using 4cm hexagons - if you use larger hexagons you will not get so many on a string.

The photograph to the left shows how your work should look from the front and back. The hexagons that I have used to demonstrate are small - about 33mm diameter - one and a quarter inches translated from imperial measurements. The fabric I have used is glazed cotton chintz, hence the glazed look. So much can be achieved from using striped fabrics in an interesting way - see photograph below of this panel. Do avoid the temptation of removing your paper templates until your work is complete - I must have made this piece about 18 years ago - still have not got around to deciding what to do with it! - This demonstrates exactly why your paper templates should not be removed - it would be very easy for me to continue if required. If you need to centre a flower in a centre of a hexagon - just hold it up to the light - and immediately tack or secure with a pin.

- Take a look at the photograph on the left - so much can be achieved with stripy fabric - I believe the fabric I used for this came from Charles Hammond - and dates back to the 1980's - I created the "four diamonds" from the same piece of fabric - and contrasted it with the pink roses, then used plain chintz to bring the design together.

To the right is another example as to how striped fabric has been put to good use. The blue and white hexagons were cut from the one piece of versatile Charles Hammond chintz. I dare not wash this - the chintz would shrink and the colours would merge - so it stays happily as a wall-hanging! I made this piece during the 1980's.

Unfortunately you cannot see the discreet detail of this piece - again I have used fabric with a large stripe and used it to create some flow in this design. It was made in the late 1970's, before I discovered the richness of chintz fabric - some of the fabrics I used - the pink rosy ones were old - its a little fragile now - however the polyester cotton is as strong as ever! I also created a blue version of this design - its still around somewhere unfinished!

I have included this hexagon grid on this page - because I feel that its important that you get to know how hexagons work together. Doodle on it - play with colours on it - see the variations - so much to explore. Print it out - if you are unable to do so - please email me and I will send it in an email to you. Two more different size grids are located at the bottom of this page - and are also available following the link at the bottom of this grid:

Patchwork Template packs - purchase from www.patchworktemplates.com or Ebay sellers name Thejaxcollection - wide selection available - will send worldwide - if you cannot find what you are looking for please email me.

The Black Hole - made from glazed cotton chintz - late 1980's - also used effective white and silver striped fabric plus my favourite "Cambridge Design" patterned glazed cotton chintz.

Close up of the above - the hexagons are imperial size one and a quarter inch in diameter. About 3000 in this quilt.

Paper Hexagon templates - variety of sizes - please take link to my Ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/patchworkpapertemplates

Fancy a challenge!! - Fibonacci Hexagons - based on on the Fibonacci sequence of number - 1,2,3,5,8,13,21,34 etc etc - great fun to work with - some of the smaller sizes are a little fiddly - I would encourage to plan your own design - you may be interested to read the article I wrote for Patchwork and Quilting magazine back in 1989 - to view this article please go to Fibonacci section of this website.

Unfinished Fibonacci piece - I was going to create a waistcoat with this design - alas it remains in the "waiting to be finished box" - the pretty patterned glazed cotton chintz is called "Tapestry" purchased from Next in the Kings Road, Chelsea in the late 1980's

There is a slightly different technique to sewing diamonds together because of the points. I will endeavour to lay out the instructions below. ....... Diamond patchwork can create very effective three dimensional designs - if skilful colour combinations are used.

As before press and prepare your fabrics allow a seam allowance similar to the photograph on the left. Place your paper template onto the wrong side of the fabric. Thread your needle with tacking thread

Tack as shown, folding fabric over the edges of the paper template. Define the sharp paper point - folding the fabric as shown back onto itself - leaving a small tongue that will be concealed within your work later.

Your finished template should look like this.

To create the perfect centre - right sides together oversew diamonds as shown. Three at a time - once you have created two halfs of three, right sides together sew across the centre. You may like to use a pin to keep in place.

Front of work - this photograph shows how the perfect centre is formed, and the tongues concealed.

28 page illustrated booklet detailing my pathway through patchwork and how it shaped my life - full description and purchase details can be found on this item in my Ebay shop following the links from the top of this page.

New February 2006 Octagon & Square Templates in two sizes and in pack of various quantities.

"The Beautiful Design" - 248 ready cut paper templates to create the design shown. Use your imagination and colour the grids provided in this pack to work your own unique pattern. This is a challenge and not suited if you are new to patchwork.

Recycled Fabrics

Traditionally, going back in time fabrics were always recycled. It makes so much sense plus the fact you can sew your own heritage into your work by using old dresses, school uniforms and other textiles that have caught your eye in car-boot sales and other such places or been passed onto you.

I created this patchwork piece using 8cm hexagons by dipping into my fabric bag - some of the fabrics date back to the 1960's, there is some lovely liberty skirt, pink rose dress, check school uniform, laura ashley remnants, and plain rust shirt. ............................It is always important to wash your fabric first - (for shrinkage and colour fastness). My personal opinion is that more or less any fabric can be used - do not worry about mixing cottons with polyesters. It is sensible to keep the fabrics to the same weight, for example probably not a good idea to mix voile with velvet. Do check for weak points in the fabric by "ripping" give it a good tug and pull. You will soon tell if its strong or not!....................I worked this design in a complete random way - so I can add more to it at a later date....................................With this in mind I have now produced Recycled Patchwork Paper Templates - available in my Ebay Shop. or email for more info.

My Cousin Joanne and her partner Steve Clark, who have been in the "recycling" business for a number of years, have just opened a shop Used2Bee in Torquay. Telephone 01803 607009 - phone first for opening times - definitely worth a visit - and easy parking too!